This is pretty basic wiring and should be
straight forward even if you are starting from scratch. You can use 14awg wire throughout
except for the battery wire from Pin 30 to the battery and the ground wire from the
battery to the first splice for the ground for the lamps – use 12awg for those two
wires. Alternately, use two 14awg wires from the battery ground to the lamps. If you are
sure you have a good ground, you can ground the lamps locally instead of running the wires
back to the battery.
Some may want to use a three position switch
for the control switch. One position would be as shown – that is, controlled by
either the high or low beam circuit, the center position would be off, and the other
position would be to +12V for override on. Note that the +12V used should be a source of
+12 that is switched by the ignition switch – so when you turn the vehicle off, the
lights go out.
If you are using my relay kit, then you want
to get a Crimper for the relay base pins from Radio Shack – their part number 64-410.
Note – the control
circuit assumes a conventionally wired OE headlamp system. That
is, the +12V is switched to the high and low beams. Note that
in some Japanese cars, the GROUND is switched instead. In that
case, you would apply battery to pin 85 of the relay and the high
or low beam circuit to the other side of the on/off switch.
